the Siren call

I've written about this particular topic before when Myla Dalbesio recently broke Calvin Klein's traditional advertising image with her gorgeously curvy frame and now Sports Illustrated has broken its own bonds by using Robyn Lawley - an Australian model who also blends the industry extremes in terms of body size. I do also wonder when the term 'plus size' is going to stop referring to models who are clearly anything but. I'd really like to see a more up to date marketing term that gives us more hooks to hang these clothing sizes on. But while we get all tongue tied over what to call these rising stars of 'normal' size if that term even exists anymore - what is very clear is that something is changing and it's changing fast.

Alongside the rise of older models that I also spoke about previously, this mainstream change in model size is truly massive in terms of it's potential. As I've said before this is not about vilifying any one body type, this is simply about representing a broader range of the population. Tiffany's just broke their own glass barrier by using two male models to sell engagement rings. A bold move that we would normally see in political based advertising rather than a conservative mainstream brand. 

What Robyn herself represents for me is beauty and strength but again without the use of an extreme example of a body type that can leave some of us who can't do headstand on a stand up paddle board a little out of breathe. She is curvy and strong and this is instantly inspiring for me, and isn't that the point we are trying to move towards?

When advertisers stop trying to make us feel bad enough to want their products and instead help us feel good enough to want their product I believe the results will be staggering.

This is Robyn's own swimwear line which as far as we're concerned is the way we'd like to see all brands going.

We have, as the years of history have shown, often found certain faces or body shapes to be 'in fashion' but what I have seen, really since the late 90's, is a move towards showcasing individuality. As the one end of the spectrum strives for perfection in the plastic surgeon's office to ever more extreme measures the other end of the see-saw it seems is seeing some action too.

For me seeing this girl's beauty being applauded for what it is, is far more of an incentive to hit the pool than any amount of body bashing that the tabloids come up with. I am so excited to see where this industry stands over the next decade and here at Mindful Apparel the changes we're bringing in will be right alongside this. 

x Jo

One size fit's all?

Model : Myla Dalbesio Photo: Calvin Klein

When I woke up this morning the Facebook newsfeed was on fire with this topic. 

This is Calvin Klein's latest campaign using Myla Dalbesio, a model that is a size 10. (Almost plus-sized apparently - yes really). Obviously she's not, but she's not a size zero either. The idea that they're going against the norm is one thing, but that this incredible looking girl is considered 'larger' is causing a fire storm and so it should.

When I was modelling this subject came up again and again, either I had to really gain weight in order to work or seriously shed the pounds in order to squeeze into those jeans that were just that few extra sandwiches too small. In the end being 'in the middle' made my job very difficult and it was an odd sensation to be declared too big in one casting only to then be too skinny in the next. 

And the people who were doing the casting or the stylists? They weren't ideal images of the human body themselves, they had just as many lumps and bumps and greasy hair as the rest of us, but their job wasn't to stand in front of the camera. And so there my argument ends.

Sort of.

Now that we have our own clothing company and essentially are the ones 'casting' it's amazing how the tables turned. Our  first instinct was to want our images to look the same as everyone else's. But neither Carrie nor I fit that target market anymore and we had to stop ourselves mid 'sell out' to question what we are perpetuating. We were going to use people in our own clothes who didn't even represent the people who would wear them.

We have always used NORMAL models (people) in our shoots. Please note, nothing plus sized or zero sized - just a person, whatever size they happen to be. But from now on we are making more changes. If they are wearing a size 'large' top then we will be saying so. That way when you look at the image you have a reference point. Isn't that the idea behind a 'model' anyway? I'm not sure when the job description changed to 'you will be expected to be perfect and then you will be photoshopped to resemble something that neither you nor anyone can live up to'.

This industry has got to take responsibility for itself.  I don't need to only see a size 22 or a size 2, because I am neither of those. It's not that those people should not be represented - they should, because they exist - but what about the middle? What about the ones who just can't wear crop tops anymore but can still run a few miles every week? How can they be ignored? And they have been. But not by the 'health industry' it seems. While we're feeling bad in changing rooms everywhere we are also the perfect target market for that multibillion dollar lie called Diets. Why make those people feel normal? God forbid they don't feel bad about themselves anymore and stop taking our pills.

There are a few brilliant changes going on in the fashion industry - one of which is the rise of the 'classic division' of the modelling world. Where models of all ages are being signed up and working at an increasing rate. Now 26 is no longer a cut off and 66 is looking incredible. A new modelling agency in London, Mrs Robinson Management is leading the way in that.

Sarah W at Mrs Robinson Management.

I'd like to see the same happen with body sizes, where size labels are reference points not appraisals. Having girls of all sizes and all ages represented without making it a huge issue will stop making it such a huge issue for the woman who they represent. It's not nice to feel like an outsider when you are just your age in your body. Perhaps this debate is a the turning point, we have certainly made that turn here at Mindful Apparel.

I think Myla herself should have the last word in this:

"I love that after working in the fashion industry for nine years, I have finally found my place, right in the middle. Neither plus, nor straight size, I love that I can be recognized for what I am, a healthy size 10.

I love that as the conversation on the internet explodes and brings greater awareness, I am receiving emails from 15 year-old girls, telling me that I have given them hope and that sharing my story has made them feel less freakish, less weird, and that they can accept their size 8 or 10 frame.

I love that I get to be a part of this conversation, about size and body image and that I get to represent a brand like Calvin Klein. They didn't introduce this campaign for shock value, they simply included what some would refer to as a "normal size" girl in their advertising, right next to other girls of varying sizes and shapes.

I love that by opening this discussion, I can also (hopefully) open some doors for other models, friends of mine, that have always straddled the line between straight size and plus. True body diversity doesn't mean only sizes 0's and 2's then jumping to size 16 and up. There is a middle ground."

x Jo